From Farm to Pantry: The Story of Crimson Galangal
Our journey to Thanh Hoá for the best red galangal used in Vietnamese cuisine
Chả cá lã vọng is one of my favorite Vietnamese dishes in the summer. Each bite bursts with flavors: the saltiness of shrimp paste, the earthiness of turmeric, and most notably, the floral aroma of galangal. Naturally, when we started planning for new products, I knew that galangal would be one of the new additions.
There are three varieties of galangal currently grown in Vietnam: yellow, white, and red with red being the most flavorful and fragrant. Galangal is used widely in northern and central Vietnamese cooking, so this knowledge helped narrow down the regions we should explore. After a whirlwind search on Facebook, we found a contact - Tuấn - in Thanh Hoá, who agreed to take us to the farms.
Freshly harvested Crimson Galangal by Lực
Our journey led us to a small district about an hour and a half from Thọ Xuân airport. Two days prior, Tuấn had called to warn me that this time of the year (February - March) might not be the best season to visit. “The spring rains are here. Everything is muddy and dirty. Would you be okay with that?” he asked. I assured him that we would show up ready to brave the weather.
At 7:00 AM, we landed in Thanh Hoá as the rain just stopped. It was an overcast, chilly day– a refreshing break from the scorching heat of Sài Gòn. Tuấn hadn’t send me an official address, just a Google Map pin, which our driver followed. The pin brought us to an empty coffee shop located inside a local mall where loud music was blasting at 10 in the morning.
We waited for Tuấn at a coffee shop. I was worried that he might not show up. After all, we had only connected on Facebook. But a few minutes later, he arrived. Immediately, Tuấn started sharing everything about his district and the galangal grown there. Tuấn explained that the area of Thanh Hoá used to grow mostly sugarcane, supplying a local sugar manufacturer. However, when the manufacturer shut down, it paved the way for red galangal cultivation. Besides its culinary uses, galangal is also popular in traditional Vietnamese medicine. This creates a steady demand and making it a popular replacement for sugarcane.
As our conversation continued, Tuấn drove us to the village of Cự Phú. After a very bumpy ride, we arrived at a house where two older women were diligently working through a pile of red galangal. Tuấn then took us to the back, where a serene galangal field appeared before my eyes. Climbing up the soft red soil hill, I understood why Tuấn warned me about the conditions. If the rain hadn't stop earlier, it would have been near impossible for us amateurs to walk up these hills.
Crimson Galangal farm in Thanh Hoá
In the early spring breeze, I caught whiff of galangal scent as Tuấn introduced us to Lực who was harvesting galangal. Lực moved south to Sài Gòn, or Nam tiến as many people called it, to work as construction worker. He came home for Lunar New Year and was helping his brother with harvest. Lực dug up chunks of beautiful, fresh, bright red galangal. As he chopped one open, the flesh revealed a vibrant yellow color along with a distinct floral scent. He walked us through his older brother's farm and explained how this plant had been providing for his family. After a while, our group drove further into Cự Phú village where Luật, Lực's brother, was planting a new crop of galangal.
Lực digging up Crimson Galangal
Luật saw us and pulled his tractor over. His crew inclued five people, each working on their own tasks. Similar to Lực, Luật moved south to Sài Gòn when he was younger. For 30 years, he worked as construction worker. “My first few months in Sài Gòn, I slept on the sidewalk and went to work during the day,” he recalled. “Now, I’ve saved up enough money to come home and start farming on my family's land.” Pointing at his muddy tractor, he beamed with pride, “That’s my latest investment after many years of saving. It greatly helps our productivity and output.”
The farms that we work with are family-owned. They’re not industrial farms with an official address. Many of them are lands located next to the farmers’ family home, unassuming if you drive by. During summer, the farmers start their day at 3 in the morning. They take a break later in the morning and resume working in the late afternoon to adapt with the intense summer heat. This region of Vietnam is affected by Foehn wind from Laos, so the warmer months are hot and dry. Young galangal plants needs to be shielded from the sun, so the farmers used to cover the soil with galangal leaves.
“The weather has become more severe and unpredictable in recent years. Now I need to buy hay to provide enough insulation for the young plants,” Luật said while showing us his newly planted plots. “But hey, maybe it's the heat that makes our galangal so good!”
Luật's crew preparing the soil for galangal planting
We left the farm with freshly harvested galangal in our bags. After a few rounds of testing, we're excited to introduce Crimson Galangal to you. Add it to your curry or braised dishes, make a chả cá Lã Vọng, or a refreshing drink. Find some inspirations in our recipes library here!
