Rooted in Red Soil: The Story of Bazan Pepper
Our sourcing journey for the best Vietnamese peppercorns
My connection to Lộc Ninh peppercorns began long before Vân Vân existed, through childhood stories shared by relatives who moved south to Lộc Ninh, Bình Phước, during the 1980s. Every visit to Sài Gòn, they brought gifts of fragrant peppercorns and tales of the climbing vines that produced them.
Vietnam’s peppercorn landscape is diverse, stretching across the Central Highlands of Gia Lai and Đắk Lắk, through the Southeastern provinces of Bình Phước and Đồng Nai. Some other well-known growing regions include Quảng Trị, Lâm Đồng, and the famed Phú Quốc island. What they all share in common is their red basalt soil. It is fertile, rich in minerals, and ideal for cultivating some of the world’s finest peppercorns.
When the time came to source peppercorns for Vân Vân, I knew that Lộc Ninh would be a destination to visit. Yet our journey wasn’t without challenges. The regional agricultural landscape has changed drastically as plummeting peppercorn prices drove farmers toward more lucrative crops such as durian and fodder for dairy cows. The evergreen vines that once dominated the district had long disappeared. Navigating the area required some local knowledge, so I contacted my cousin, who connected us with the Farmers’ Association of Lộc Ninh district.
Left: Mr. Tạ Cư's peppercorn farm
Right: Farm worker harvests peppercorns
Our journey began on an early spring morning. Only three hours away from Sài Gòn, we reached Bình Phước as the sun became more intense and the temperature started rising. My cousin introduced us to Mr. Ngọc Anh, an enthusiastic leader of the farmers’ association. He shared how the local government has supported a group of dedicated farmers in transitioning to more sustainable and organic practices. Despite Lộc Ninh’s long history of peppercorn cultivation, it lacks the name recognition of Gia Lai or Phú Quốc - something the community collectively hopes to change.
Driving through groves of rubber and cashew trees under the blazing sun, Mr. Anh took us to several farms. One particular farm stood out to us - Mr. Tạ Cư’s farm has been operating for nearly three decades. Originally from Quảng Trị in central Vietnam, Mr. Cư and his wife have called Lộc Ninh home for 40 years. While neighboring farms abandoned peppercorn vines for durian orchards, Mr. Cư remains committed to the peppers by continuously investing in sustainable practices and implementing innovation.
Left: Mr. Tạ Cư at his farm
Right: His wife, Mrs. Đông, showing us the different peppercorn varieties
At his farm, Mr. Cư grows two distinctive Vietnamese varieties: the Vĩnh Linh peppercorn from his native Quảng Trị and the Trung peppercorn, an heirloom variety from Lộc Ninh.
What truly impresses us is his openness to a new cultivation system. Lộc Ninh farmers typically use trees chopped down from the nearby forest or concrete pillars to support climbing pepper vines. However, Mr. Cư switched to growing acacia trees, which provide both steady structure and cooling shade. In the same estate, the family raises goats that feed on acacia leaves. Then, the goats produce manure that nourishes the pepper vines while improving soil conditions.
Left: Green peppercorns on the vines
Right: The goats on Mr. Cư' estate
Between the two pepper varieties, the Trung peppercorn got our attention. Although the Trung peppers are smaller, these peppers deliver a bolder heat, a spicier kick, and a subtle fruity flavor profile. Tasting fully ripened red peppercorns directly from the vine was exciting. The initial sweet notes unfold into a lingering, warming spiciness. It was a real winner.
As Mr. Cư walked us through his farm, he candidly shared the challenges of recent years. With peppercorns requiring 2-3 years to reach maturity, the price collapse hit his family farm hard. They were struggling to stay afloat. When we asked why he persisted with peppercorns while others pivoted to more profitable crops, his answer was simple: “The peppercorns have been good to us. And I’ve devoted my farming life to them,” he said. “Plus, I have faith in the vines we’re growing.”
His dedication resonated deeply with us, which encouraged us to work with him. In tribute to the distinctive red basalt soil of Bình Phước, we named the new product “Bazan Pepper.”
To us, these peppercorns are more than just spices. These berries are delicious, but they also stand for the patience and persistence of farmers such as Mr. Cư. The ones who refuse to abandon the crops despite market pressures and continuously adopt new improvements.
Left: A mix of different colored peppercorns
Right: Fresh red peppercorns
All peppercorns come from the same vine, except for pink peppercorns (different species). The difference lies in how they are treated.
Bazan Pepper is black pepper that comes from green, unripe peppercorns. It is hand-harvested and naturally sun-dried until the fruits turn black at Mr. Cư’s farm.
White peppers are the seeds of ripe, dried fruits.
Green peppers are unripe peppercorns. In Vietnam, they are cooked fresh to add peppery flavors and bring a vibrant color to the final dishes. These fruits can also be dehydrated or cured in a brine to preserve the color and flavor.
Red peppers are fully ripe fruits left on the vines. They are rarer to find and have a milder, fruitier taste.
